The Sleeping Indian
Sunday, November 10, 2024
Sleeping Indian Mesa
Friday, May 31, 2024
Bull Gulch
Bull Gulch
Thursday, May 2, 2024
Following Melting Water Downhill
Following Melting Water Downhill
Its that time of year when the amazing outdoor playground that are the Colorado Rockies transition from winter wonderland to summer paradise. This past winter ended up being a very good one in terms of snowfall and the resulting snowpack, after a very unpromising early season. It was a very dry start to the past winter, and coming off the last good one we had last year, it seemed reasonable to expect a stinker. Dry winters often seem to follow snowy ones, and we seemed to be headed for a year like that until the heavens finally opened in January. The big “atmospheric river” of storms that walloped California still had some snow left over for us once they crossed the Great Basin.
Last Sunday I went to Steamboat for closing day, and conditions were such that it seemed like it could've stayed open for another couple weeks. Today I went to Copper Mountain, and it felt like mid-winter. They got a foot of wind blown snow over the past couple of days, and at 12,000’ it still feels like February. In most ways, March and April are my favorite times of the year to ski. The base is as deep as it will get, which means my favorite aspen glades are open since all the deadfall is covered. The weather is warmer, so the electric socks and gloves can stay in the car. My job delivering propane also slows a bit, so occasionally I run to the Beav for a few runs after work. And this late in the season, my legs are as strong as they’re going to be all year.
But alas, springtime is here and with it a procession of ski hills closing for the year. First it was Arrowhead and Bachelor Gulch, next Beaver Creek, and then Vail and Steamboat. Sometime in May Copper will stop running, and A Basin finally pulls the plug in June. The end of the ski season is a bittersweet time, especially when you find yourself on top of some run for what you know will be the final time. It'll only be a few short months until November when colder weather and fresh snowfall begins the whole cycle again. Sometimes I wonder how long I'll be able to keep feeding my skiing addiction. Skiing well requires a certain minimum level of physical fitness, one that I’ve been able to maintain so far. Whether its due to modern equipment or better technique, at the age of 63 I can still ski as well as I ever have, maybe even better. But I no longer take that ability for granted, for still being able to do what I love is something I treasure and appreciate more each passing year. I’ve never regretted a single day I’ve ever spent skiing, even on days when I’ve injured myself or endured bad weather getting to or from the mountain. That moment of magic being swept up a mountainside by a chairlift, or carving those first few swoops in the snow, make it all worth it. I’ve never had the questionable “pleasure” of doing heroin, but whatever hormone that gets released into my brain when making perfect turns on a powder snow must have similar effect. I don’t ski merely because I want to, its something I need to do. It gives me a high and a rush that I'm addicted to as surely as a junkie who needs their next fix. Sometimes strapping on a pair of skis and flying down a mountainside feels like a superpower, Ironman putting on his suit. Terrain that would take hours to traverse in a normal pair of boots can covered in just minutes or even seconds. Its an empowering feeling I don’t get from anything else.
The disappointment caused by limited ski options is mitigated by the knowledge that as one door closes, another opens. And that open door leads to all the local ponds, creeks and rivers bustling with life, ready for fishing or paddling upon. There are two times of year in Colorado when the ski and fishing seasons overlap, November and springtime. In November you can do both, but there aren't many ski runs open yet and most of the snow is man made. Advantage fishing. But in the spring, the mountain conditions are perfect and the rivers are still cold and a bit off-color. The ice on the Colorado River melted off in late March, but until the water temperature gets above fifty degrees I don't even think of fishing the Colorado. Advantage skiing.
All of those beautiful white frozen snow molecules I’ve spent the winter skiing upon are now in the process of changing into their liquid form, and providing an even more important and lasting benefit. As they melt, it creates the dynamic ecosystems that nurtures life as we in the arid west know it. Healthy rivers make it all possible, and I love the idea of following the melting water downhill, and being its partner, its passenger, and its beneficiary. I hope that I’ll have many more seasons of riding that magic white carpet, but if I don’t then at least I can know that I didn’t leave anything on the table.
My dory has been sitting in the Colorado River in my backyard since Easter, and I go for a short float on in it almost every night after work. The dogs love it and so do I, and it’s a good way to build up my strength for when real rowing is required later this year. The Upper Colorado River is already up to 2,500cfs, a level it hasn’t been at since last summer after the runoff dropped. It feels great hanging out next to the river as it pulses past with life and energy. I don’t know if it’s the sound or smell or the negative ions, but there’s something about being next to or on a river that fills the soul, or at least mine.
The two things that make me happiest are standing upon a pair of skis, or sitting between the oarlocks of my boat (and maybe wearing a pair of ice skates should be on that list too). In all three scenarios, I want for and need nothing else. The common denominator which makes them all possible is water, whether in frozen or liquid form. Having two good snowy winters in a row feels like more than we could have hoped for, especially after the way this season started. Knowing that there’s a decent snowpack above yet to melt is like having a money in the bank. I may not have much experience with the latter, but the former is something I’ve learned to appreciate. Even if things turn dry again this summer, having a full aquatic bank account sitting in the reservoirs above means that all of the finned, furred, feathered or skinned creatures who rely the river should have what they need this year to survive and thrive.
This leaves me feeling very positive for what the summer of 2024 is looking like. I hope that everyone reading this gets to spend as much time as possible filling their soul beside or upon a river as well!
Jack Bombardier
PS- I've been reading a fantastic book, “The Emerald Mile”, by Kevin Fedarko. Its ostensibly about the fastest boat rode ever thorough the Grand Canyon, but it also about a lot more than just that. It’s a book I’d heard of and wanted to read, but hadn’t gotten around to it yet. And then this winter, it showed up in my mailbox, shipped from a used book seller without any note as to who my benefactor was. I reached out to the website it came from, but they wouldn’t divulge the name.
So who can I thank for this? If its someone who is getting this email, can you let me know so that I can offer my thanks? It was wonderful gesture, one that I’d like to reciprocate somehow!
Tuesday, March 12, 2024
Raking Ice
Raking Ice
Its that time of year when the Colorado River begins its transition from a frozen, icebound popsicle back to a singing, flowing ribbon of life. Of course, the river never stopped moving, and life was always there, but its out of sight and its easy to forget. Out of sight, out of mind. Soon it will be warm enough to keep the windows open, and be serenaded by the constant music the river provides.
Winter isn’t quite done yet, and the mountains are still blanketed in a thick coat of the white gold that we’ll all be reaping the benefits of for the rest of the year. The powder snow we ski on in February, becomes the whitewater we splash through in June, becomes the water that we and trout swim in come summer. Snow is the gift that keeps on giving.
Its Leap Day 2024 as I write this, and its been as good of a winter as one could hope for given our warming climate. The snowpack on the Upper Colorado River basin is sitting at 100% of average, and an “average” year in the Colorado Rockies is better than a good year just about anywhere else. The river in my backyard froze up well this year, which made for some great skating. The surface I kept clear was over 300’ long, and 25’ wide. The labrador puppies we had a year ago enjoyed their first winter season, and loved being out on the ice almost as much as I do. We play a version of hockey which consists of me flipping the puck almost the length of the ice, with them chasing it down in a pack. The first dog to the puck is not always the one that catches it though. They usually end up in a big crashing pile, and when they turn around and race back I produce a second puck which I send back to the other end of the ice, and we repeat the process. I don’t know how many times those four beautiful dogs and I went up and down the length of the ice this winter, but it was a great way to spend time and get some exercise.
But as much fun as it is turning the Colorado River into an ice rink during the winter, at either end it can have a dark side. In the fall when the ice is forming, and in the spring when it melts, the river can be very dangerous. Fifteen years ago, a dog of ours named Piper went through the ice in a spot that I had walked on myself the day before. Once the ice begins to melt, it disappears very quickly. When Piper broke through, I broke through twice myself trying to get her out. If you've never broken through ice and fallen into the water below, I wouldn't recommend trying it. Being the sole member of an unplanned Polar Plunge Club isn't that much fun. I ended up jumping into the river a third time when I saw her lifeless body emerge from under the ice shelf, being carried away by the current. That was one the worst days of my life, so now once the ice begins to melt the backyard becomes a “No Go” zone for the dogs, at least until all of the ice is gone. The dogs don’t know better, and until its safe out there they can’t understand why they can’t go out to play in their own personal Labrador Paradise.
Once the ice starts to get soft in the spring, I try to hasten the process of getting it gone. It makes me a bit sad to see my rink go, knowing that its been the source of so many hours of fun. But the sooner its gone, the sooner we can start having new kinds of fun. The dogs love to swim as much as they love chasing pucks, and I get to keep my boat out there all year to row and fish from. If I wait for Mother Nature to take her course, it might take a week or two for that enormous ice slab to melt away. But with a little help, I can usually shorten that duration to a day or two. All it takes is to cut a path in the ice along the bank to where the slab is connected. Once water can flow between the ice and the bank, it doesn’t take long for that separation to grow. On warm days, in the afternoons the river rises, and lifts the slab up. So on Sunday, I put on my neoprene waders and spent a couple of hours with a pick axe and rake, whaling the hell out of the ice. The rake is one that we inherited with the property, its pretty ancient and unlike any I’ve ever seen. Its too wimpy to actually move dirt and rocks with, but for moving ice in the river its perfect.
I start by chopping away the lower end of the slab, then using the rake to drag the broken pieces downstream into the flow. The key is to get the water moving in the channel I create, and let the flow work its magic. Chop chop chop rake, chop chop chop rake, and repeat until there is a flowing path all the way up the bank. If anyone happened by and saw me at my task, it would’ve made for an odd site. I was undoubtedly the only person standing in the Colorado River raking ice that day, or on any day. But by late in the afternoon the task was completed, and now there was nothing to do but wait.
On Monday morning, I went out to check the river before going to work, and saw that a thin layer of ice had reformed. So I got the rake back out, and broke that thin layer of ice, which was a lot easier than it had been the previous day. When I got home that evening, the entire sea of ice we’d been enjoying all winter was gone, and the river was restored. One of my wife’s employees saw it go, and said that it looked like an enormous island of ice as it drifted away. In past years, I’ve gotten to see huge slabs break off, and been tempted to jump on and go for my first river ride of the season. But for this year, I was content to come home and see that the Colorado flowing through my backyard again. Another river season has begun, and the cycle of life and of seasons continues. There’s a healthy snowpack above just waiting to melt and flow downhill to bring it all back to life. The dogs and I can’t wait!
Jack Bombardier