Things They
Might Not Teach You In Guide Class
Its springtime in Colorado, and all over the Rocky Mountain
west young men and women who dream of becoming fishing guides are signing up
for Guide Class. Taking a class with an
outfitter is the first step on that road, and its also the way that outfitters
recruit new guides for their upcoming season.
Most guides start off doing wade trips, and then over time buy a boat to
guide from that. Guiding from a boat
requires a skill set that goes beyond what’s required for a wade trip. Great
float fish guides are hard to find, and are both made and born. That’s because
the fishing skills needed to be a good guide can only be learned through lots
of practice. But to have a personality
that someone will want to spend a long day in a boat with is something you can’t
really teach. There are plenty of guys
who are great fishermen, but lousy guides.
Then there are those who customers love to be with, but can’t catch a
fish with an M-80 and a large net.
Fishing from a boat has some inherent differences than
fishing from a bank does. When wade
fishing, an angler has time to scope out the river and determine where the best
spot might be to find a feeding fish to fool.
You get to think about the current, and what it will do to your line and
drifting fly, and how much room you’ll have for your backcast. You’ve got the time to look into the river
and see what insects are about, and what the angle of the sun and direction of
the wind is. If you work a hole with a
fly without success, you can try a different fly or presentation.
On a boat, you often get only one opportunity to make that
perfect cast or drift. You need to
always have a corner of your eye looking downstream at what’s coming up next,
and not at that perfect feeding lie you’ve just floated past. It’s your job a
as a guide to remind customers of that.
Having been a float fishing guide for some time now, I’ve
learned a few things through experience that have made me a better at what I do. For those looking to better their
experience while fishing from a boat on moving water, here are a few things to
think about that might help.
Getting To
Know Your Customer
Before getting on the water, it’s important to know what
your customer’s ability, experience, and expectations are. Are they a newbie, or do they have more experience
than you do? Knowing what their
expectations are will go a long way towards making a successful day on the
water. In a commercial setting, a guide
will often not meet their client until the morning of their trip, so its
important to make the most use of the time you have before you step onto the
boat. If they’re beginners, spend some
time on the bank practicing casting before you’re on the water and in
motion. If you’re launching from a busy
public ramp, know some spot that’s not too far downstream from which you can
have the room to do so. It doesn’t
matter if it’s a fishy hole, the idea is to let them make enough practice casts
so that they’re ready for when you do find a spot with fish. Sometimes the only opportunity you’ll get to
pick their brain is on the shuttle ride to the put in, so don’t waste it
telling them how great you are. Use that
time to find out about them, and how they fish. Do they prefer to nymph fish, or use dry
flies, or are they from Florida and have only chucked streamers? When I take
beginners, I try to make a point of trying each of those methods during our day
together to see what they like best, and not just run the same nymph rig
all day. How can they know what they
like if they haven’t tried it? There are
an almost infinite number of ways to fly fish, which is one of the things that
make it to stimulating.
Before
Setting Off
Determine who is going to
be in front of the boat and who will be the back. I typically have the angler who needs the
most instruction positioned in front, so I can watch what they’re doing and
offer instructions. If both anglers have
similar experience, I’ll suggest that we split the day so that each gets to
spend time in front. The person who is in
front typically get the first chance at each hole, so its nice for each of them
to have that opportunity.
Its also a good time to
let them each know what their responsibilities are. On a moving river like the Colorado, the
angler in front should be casting towards the bank at about a 45 degree
angle. This accomplishes several things
at once. First, casting downstream
usually makes for the best presentation.
The fish get to see the fly before the boat or the line, and it also
makes for a better drift. Since the water along the edge of the river is
usually moving slower than the water in the middle where the boat is, a
downstream cast will make it much easier to mend the line. A second advantage is that by having the
front angler making casts that are downstream of the boat, it will keep them
looking ahead at the next good spot that’s coming, and not thinking about the
one they just passed by. The third reason for the person up front to be casting
out ahead is that if they don’t, they force the person in the rear of the boat
to cast behind the boat, too. Even if the guide is doing a lot of backrowing to
slow down, the boat will still want to overtake the fly. If the person in front
is casting directly towards the bank, or even worse behind it, then the angler
in back has nowhere to cast but even further behind. It will be almost impossible for them to get
a perfect drift. Unless they’re tossing
streamers, they’re going to have a long day.
The angler in the rear of
the boat only has one thing to worry about, and that’s to watch when their
buddy up front is casting, and to not cast at the same time. Since the angler up front will be looking
downriver, they’ll have no idea when their partner out back is casting. Its up to the rear angler, who should also be
looking downstream, to accommodate the person in front so that both casters
rigs don’t get snared mid-air. The only thing worse than having to re-rig a
multi-fly setup is having to re-tie two.
Rowing
Fish don’t seem to be all that worried or notice boats too much. In
fact, one of the first things they do when hooked sometimes is race towards the
boat, and the deep safe-seeming shadow it casts. But what they will notice is your
oars. Since fish don’t have ears, they won’t
hear many sounds from above the water line. You could probably play some hair
metal band at full volume on a boombox and they wouldn’t care (but I would, so
if you see me on the river please turn it off).
However, they do have lateral lines which are extremely
sensitive to vibrations, so learn to be gentle with your oars when rowing. Try to keep any splashing or unnecessary
strokes to a minimum, especially in quieter water.
Communication
As you make your way down the river, there are times when
you’ll want to turn your boat one way or another, or have to move from one side
of the river to the opposite bank.
Before you do, let your clients know that you will be doing so. This gives them a moment to hold off on casting,
and will reduce the odds the anglers will get their lines crossed. If you have
a boat with an exposed anchor rope, also let them know when you will be raising
or lowering the anchor so that their line doesn’t get snagged by it.
Lefty/Righty
One thing that’s different about fishing from a boat than
wade fishing is one person will usually have a more obstructed cast than the
other. In the case of casting from a
boat, the obstruction won’t be in the form of a tree branch behind you, but it’s
due to the fact that there are three people all sharing a very limited amount
of space, two of whom have fly lines looping around overhead.
In a scenario where there are two righthanded anglers on
board, one person will usually have an unobstructed cast and the other’s will
be somewhat hampered. For example, if
you are in a boat casting towards the right bank, a righthanded angler in the
front will have to be aware that a normal cast runs the risk of hooking their
guide or partner with their backcast.
However, the righthanded caster in the back of the boat has all the room
in the world for their cast. When
fishing the left side of the river, the roles are reversed. Now the righthanded angler in front casting
towards the left has plenty of room, but the person in back has to worry about
taking off my hat with his airborne flies. Since in an average day you’ll spend
half on one side and half on the other, it all evens out.
The other scenario is one where there will be one lefty and
one righty. This is great on one side of
the river, because both anglers will have room to cast. But on the other side, both will be
obstructed. So instead of having half
your day being great, and the other half not so much, there is one mitigating
strategy you can employ, and that’s to go stern-first (backwards) when on what
would otherwise be their weak sides.
Thus, if you are fishing with a lefthander up front and a righty in
back, you would point your boat downriver when fishing the right bank. But when you fish the left bank, by spinning
the boat around 180 degrees, they can still both have unobstructed
casts. This also has the added benefit of giving each anglers an equal
opportunity to be in the “front” of the boat.
The only downside to this approach is that as the person rowing, you
might get a sore neck from looking backwards for half the day. But the priority for a guide is to do
everything in you can to put your clients in a position where they can be
successful. Its not about you, but the people who have spent a lot of money to
be out there with you. A sore neck is
what Advil is for.
Identifying Your Customers Strengths And Weaknesses
Some experienced customers know exactly what they want to
do, and how to do it. They know where
the best fishing lies are, have the skills to put their flies there, and can
also mend the line just so to get a perfect drift. All you need to do is keep the boat a
consistent distance from the bank, and they can do the rest. These are my favorite customers to have on my
boat (along with attractive females), but unfortunately you may only get one or
two of each per season. The rest will
either have some skills, or worse their skills aren’t as good as they think
they are. Some anglers can cast great
but not mend, others can expertly mend a fly but only cast ten feet from the
boat. Some will spend all day casting
behind the boat, while others will not be able to pause long enough on their
backcast to load the rod, and you’ll spend the day untying “wind” knots. Its important to try and identify your
customer’s shortcomings early, and to gently recommend ways to correct
them. Because of this, its almost easier
to guide someone who is a raw beginner than it is to have someone who thinks that
they’re already great at it. At least a
beginner is open to instruction, where an experienced person might bristle at
your suggestions. I have one customer
who is one of the best casters I’ve ever seen but won’t let the fly float long
enough to actually catch many fish.
He’ll make an accurate cast and put his fly ten inches from the bank,
then make a perfect mend, but will only let the fly float for about a foot
before pulling it out and repeating the process. Meanwhile, he’ll miss ten feet
of perfect water that pass by while his flies are in the air forming his next
cast. He does catch fish, but about a
quarter of what he might if he would just keep his flies on the water longer, (which
is where the fish are). As a guide you’ll run into all personality types, and
some will take instruction and some will not.
The kind of people who can afford to spend $500 to spend the day fishing
when they could do it for free tend to be those who have attained a certain
level of success in life. They probably
manage a business of some sort and are used to giving orders, not taking them.
On top of the technical skills needed to be a good guide, there is also a
certain level of emotional intelligence needed as well. Learning what you can and can’t control will
make the difference between a long day on the water, and one you’ll hate to see
end because you’re enjoying it as much as they are.
Getting
Them Out Of Their Comfort Zone
Most people will just fish with one hand all day long,
because that’s what they’re used to doing.
Fly casting is difficult enough to do with your dominant hand, why would
you want to ever switch? If you’re fishing from a boat, there are several good
reasons, and the first relates to the aforementioned lefty\righty scenarios. If
you can convince your customers to try using their off hand, then no one ever has
to have an obstructed cast no matter what bank you are casting towards. This
isn’t something that I suggest while clients are fishing multi-fly rigs like
nymphs or hopper/droppers, but I do when we are fishing streamers. The reason
is that casting streamers are much easier than other rigs, since they’re are
weighted and the casting motion is much simpler. Streamers on a medium sized river like the
Upper Colorado often work best being tossed towards the bank or around structure,
twitched or stripped for a couple of feet, and then pulled out and quickly cast
again. Fish are usually holding within a
few feet of the bank, and not out in the heavy current. If a fish hasn’t begun to chase your flies
within the first few feet, they’re not going to, so there’s no reason to work
that fast water that the boat is in.
We’ll usually set up fifteen or twenty feet from the bank, cast towards
that soft water along the edge, and swim the flies back until they are in the
faster water. If there is some
big brown trout chasing it, then you keep stripping the flies all the way to
the boat to stimulate the fish’s chase response. If there aren’t any chasers,
then you pull the flies back out, ideally before they’re more than halfway to
the boat. This way you begin your backcast while you still have enough tension
on your line to load the rod. In very
short order, casting streamers becomes an easy, repetitious motion that’s easy
to do with either hand. It might
take fifty casts to master it, but in fast moving water like that you’ll have
fifty casts under your belt in just a few minutes. In a half hour, most people
can cast streamers as well with their left hand as their right.
Then the other
advantages to off hand casting become apparent.
For one thing, in a righty/righty scenario, if one angler is willing to
cast with his off hand then you are now fishing righty/lefty, so no matter what
side of the river you’re on both anglers have an unobstructed cast. The next advantage might only become apparent
after the day is over. By spending some
portion of the day casting with the arm you don’t normally use, you are saving
a lot of wear and tear on you regular arm.
Streamer fishing is a very active, tiring way to fish. If you are doing it correctly, then your
casting arm is in almost constant motion.
Every cast you make with your left arm is one less you are making with
your right. Finally, your client is learning a new skill, which might serve
them well someday if they’re righthanded, and find themselves having to make an
upstream cast from the left bank while wade fishing. I’m still not great at casting lefthanded,
but I can if I have to and its because of the time I’ve spent casting streamers
lefthanded from a boat.
The Lift
& Drift
There are going to be days on the water when you have to
deal with wind, and not just if you fish in Wyoming. Sometimes I’ll set up in the bottom of the
big eddy so that clients can cast upstream with the wind at their backs. Or I’ll have them try to tune into the wind’s
rhythm, and make their casts between the gusts.
But you can’t hold in the same eddy forever, eventually you have to make
your way down the river. Hopper/dropper
rigs have one fly that will cut right through the wind, weighted nymph, but the
hopper itself is large and unaerodynamic. The two flies have characteristics
that are completely opposite, so trying to cast them into the wind is a fool’s
errand.
There’s a technique
that I call the Lift & Drift to help mitigate the effects of the wind, and
to keep fishing even while in motion.
The Lift & Drift works on the principal that things in the
water will float faster then those things floating on the water. An example of the first would be insects both
real and artificial, and example of the latter would be a boat. The key to making the Lift & Drift work
is to identify the thalweg, or the part of the river where the flows are the
strongest. This is typically where the
bubble line is, and may have spinners in it if there was a morning hatch. Even on windy days, the thalweg will often
look smooth as glass, even with the water’s surface rippled everywhere
else. Feeding fish don’t care about the
wind that’s making things difficult above the water’s surface. Its often just a
matter of drifting your flies in that sweet spot and keeping them there long
enough for a trout to see them.
The Lift & Drift works by putting the boat in the
thalweg, having the client make a downstream cast, and fishing below the boat.
The boat will follow the flies and we use the current to carry the fly out away
from the boat. Often in the face of an uphill wind, their cast will just land
in a big heap, but that’s OK. The
current will carry the fly or flies downstream over the feeding fish, and
that’s the Drift part. Eventually
however the line will run out of slack, and the top fly, usually a big
foam-bodied hopper, will begin to drag.
It will first create a v-wake, and then get pulled under. However, if the angler slowly raises their
rod tip as the drag begins, they can lift that fly out enough to put more slack
in their line, and then gently lower it again, resuming their fly’s downstream
drift. You do this until it begins to
drag again, lift, and repeat the process.
If the uphill wind is gentle, I hold the boat sideways so that the
angler in the front and back can each work the bubble line. If the wind is stronger, then the boat will
probably need to be pointed downriver into the wind, and only the person up
front will get to do this. But the Lift
& Drift can be a very effective way to keep fishing even into the teeth of
a strong wind, by using what the river gives you, i.e., steady current, and not
trying to fight the wind. Also, it’s
often the moment when the angler slowly lifts line up to impart slack back into
the line that the trout will move in and take the fly, especially when fishing
dries.
Tenkara
Tenkara is an ancient Asian style of fishing originally
intended to fish small headwater streams, or what our grandparents would have
called cane pole fishing. A tenkara rod
is very long, 11 to 13 feet, and uses no reel, just a long line and leader
combination. Tenkara in its purest form
uses specific flies with a forward hackle that are gently pulsed to give the
flies a lifelike motion. If you want to really get into it, you could probably
light some incense or a candle, and get on your knees and say a prayer before
casting. I don’t bother with any of
that, and simply view a tenkara rod as a different kind to fly rod. I rig the
terminal tackle exactly as I would a conventional rod, i.e. a hopper/dropper,
or nymph rig, or double dry fly. I’ve
even used unweighted Wooly Buggers and caught fish that way.
You don’t often see anglers using tenkara rods from a boat,
and for the life of me I can’t understand why they aren’t. There are many reasons why you would want to
have a tenkara rod or two on your boat.
For one thing, they are telescopic, so they don’t take up any room at
all. I’ve got at least a couple rigged
and ready for every float I do, even on scenic floats when we’re not even
planning to fish. The next is that
because they are so easy to cast, they’re great for beginners. One of the things that give beginners trouble
when learning to cast is that the pause on the backcast while getting the rod
to load is constantly changing, depending on how much line is out in the air.
Since a tenkara has a fixed length of line, the pause on the backcast never
changes. It’s a lift, pause, then forward
with the rod. Lift, pause, forward.
Lift, pause forward. It makes casting
incredibly easy. In most cases,
beginners are casting beautifully in very short order. And that ease of casting translates into
anglers casting equally well with either hand. There is no righty/lefty conundrum, for most
minimally coordinated people can do it just as well with either hand.
Now that the angler isn’t having to think about how to cast,
they can concentrate on the matter at hand, which is fishing, not
casting. And the fishing part is now
easier, because with the longer length of rod, an angler has far more control
over their lines and flies than they would with a conventional shorter
rod. Mending is much more important than
casting when it comes to catching fish, and beginners (and experts) can mend
easier with a tenkara rod. This mending
ability comes in handy when working some of the big, foamy eddies that the
Upper C is noted for. Being able to hold
your leader up out of all those spinning eddies keeps flies floating long
enough for a hungry trout to see them.
Having a tenkara rod on hand is also a great way to get spin
fishermen into fly fishing. When guiding
spin fishermen I’ll usually wait until they’ve caught a couple their way, and
at some point will suggest that they try a tenkara. The advantage to it is that
in faster water, they can spend more time with their fly in the softer where
the fish are, along the bank, and less time with the spinning lure in the heavy
water No Fish Zone reeling their lure in readying for the next cast.
The one situation that tenkara is not good for though
is in the wind. When its windy, you end
up with wind drag and not water drag, and tenkara rods a pretty useless.
There is one adaptation that you need to make to use a
tenkara rod to fish from a boat, and that is to make a longer setup than you would
if you were fishing some small spring creek.
For a typical 12 foot long tenkara rod, one might have a line and leader
combination of perhaps 15 feet to fish small water. This allows an angler to land their fish by
holding the rod up over their head with one hand, and to land the fish with the
other. However, a rig that short would
mean that while working one’s way down the river, the boat would have to be too
close to the bank to get the fly near the bank, which would spook fish. So to
use a tenkara rod on the river, I typically rig a line/leader combination
eighteen to twenty feet long. This is
usually just about right to put your fly a foot or two off the bank. The interesting part comes when a fish is
hooked, and it’s time to get it into the net.
Often, we can get a fish close but not quite close enough. In these circumstances, I’ll hop out of the
boat and land the fish beside it. It’s a
bit inconvenient, but its usually easier on the fish and makes it simpler to
release it. Its also a great perspective
to take a photo of both anglers when they’re in the boat, and you’re not. I’ll hold the fish up in my left hand and
take the picture with my right, and having the fish in the foreground makes all
three subjects roughly the same size.
There is also one last sneaky advantage for a guide when
their customers are using a tenkara rod, and that is it’ll make you feel like you
are the one fishing, not just the client.
When I’ve got someone using a tenkara, I’ll typically have them
positioned in front, and keep the bow of the boat angled towards the bank. When
they make a cast, the fly will only go so far due to the finite amount of
length of their setup. If its not close
enough to the bank to hit the seam we’re aiming for, I’ll have them cast again.
As they do I’ll turn the bow a little closer, so that their next cast lands
closer to where we want it to be. In
effect, I’m the one who is placing the fly in the correct spot, not them. This
gets me more engaged in the whole process, since it feels like I’m the
one fishing, and they just happen to be holding the rod.
Conclusion
Guiding fishermen from a boat can be a great way to make a
living, since you’ve got the world’s best office. The longer you do it, the more ways you will
learn to improve the experience for both you and your customer. Just try to keep an open mind and be ready to
“go with the flow”!
Jack Bombardier
Confluence Casting LLC
jack@confluencecasting.com